Dealing with a Crying Puppy at Night

Dealing with a crying puppy is often the first problem a new puppy owner must face. During the first night a puppy is separated from the rest of the litter he will often whine and fuss. This behavior is a very natural survival skill learned early in life. Whether its in the whelping box or in the wild, a puppy learns very quickly that when separated from the pack, calls for help will allow other members of the pack to quickly locate him/her, thus reuniting them with their peers. To that extent, many animal behaviorists recommend allowing a new puppy to sleep in the same room with you to reduce this separation anxiety.

Moving a crate into your bedroom accomplishes two things. First, as stated above, it reduces separation anxiety for the puppy. Second, it allows you to monitor your puppy’s housebreaking routine. Before putting your puppy up for the night, make sure he has had a chance to go outside and eliminate. Inevitably, you will find that as you close the door to the crate he will begin to whine and fuss. At this point you will want to begin introducing a "NO NOISE" command and tap your hand on the top of the crate. If the puppy continues to whine, just ignore him. The last thing you want to do is reward this behavior with opening the crate door and comforting him. If you do, he will soon begin to learn that if he cries, the door will open, not the association you want to establish.

Try placing an undergarment or blanket with your scent on it in the crate with the puppy. Additionally, placing a ticking alarm clock outside the kennel can be comforting to your new puppy for the first few nights away from his litter mates. Other things to try are a night lamp, radio, tv. Your new puppy while with us has been used to a light, and tv or radio on at all times of the day or night. Weather we are with them or not. It gives them some comfort.  

During the night, if your puppy seems to be stirring, get up and take him/her outside immediately. With puppies, you WILL have to carry them outside to avoid accidents. Once he/she has had a chance to relieve himself, bring him straight back inside to his crate. If he begins to fuss again, issue the "NO NOISE" command once again.

After a few nights of dealing with the whining and carrying on, your puppy should begin to make it through the night with minimal fussing.

Points to remember:
Have a vigorous play session prior to going to bed.
Allow your dog to eliminate completely prior to being put up for the night.
Never open the crate door when the puppy is crying.
An undergarment or a ticking alarm clock can comfort a new puppy during his first few nights away from his litter mates

Things To Remember:

Establishing an Effective Pattern in Hunting Dogs

By far the most productive condition is upwind, because when the wind is blowing from the bird to the dog, the dog is able to smell body scent. Obviously, we'd prefer to hunt into the wind the majority of the time, so it only makes sense to train dogs to effectively pattern for upwind situations. A dog with the wind in its nose that covers the ground to the left and right of the hunter's path has considerably more opportunities to produce birds than one that hunts in a straight line down the field.

In order to train a close-working dog to quarter (in a windshield-wiper pattern) into the wind, you need to start early. Beginning with the first puppy walks in the field; walk into the wind in a zigzag fashion. When you change direction give two short beeps on your whistle. In no time the pup will learn to change direction upon hearing the two beeps.

For more structured training, use planted birds and a groomed field to create the habit of ground coverage you desire. If the prevailing wind in your training field is from the north, cut rows east-and-west, alternating high rows (knee to waist high) and low rows (about six inches) down the length of the field.

You can jumpstart the pup's quartering training by using two helpers, or teasers. Have one set up about 25 yards to your left and the other 25 yards to your right. All three of you should then move downfield into the wind. The helper on the right should animatedly call the pup's name, clap his hands and encourage the pup to run to him. When the pup reaches him, give two beeps on the whistle. The lefthand teaser should now enthusiastically entice the pup to his side. For flushing and retrieving breeds, the teaser can use a Velcro-wing pigeon (a strip of Velcro around a live bird's wings will prevent the bird from flying) to pitch for the pup. The game should be fun and upbeat.

When the youngster is accustomed to running back and forth to the guns (teasers), plant Velcro-wing pigeons in the high rows at the outside edge of desired range, alternating sides of the field in every sec- ond row. With the birds in the high rows, the pup will be encouraged to use its nose, not its eyes. Regular repetition of this exercise will create a dog that habitually quarters to the sides at whatever distance you desire. Another trick in training is to always give your dog a plant on the first cast. If right out of the box the dog always finds a bird to the side, it will be less likely to pour straight down the field when initially let loose. When the pup is on its first hunting season, carry a live pigeon, chukar or quail in your vest. If the young dog gets way out, toss the velcro-wing bird out in front and to the side of you. When the pup comes back, it will find a bird near you and think, Gee, I'd better stay closer. That's where the birds are.
If you don't have helpers, groomed rows will prove even more useful because the pup will naturally work right and left in the low rows, taking the course of least resistance. If you don't have access to a field you can groom, improvise. An old logging road will suffice. Plant birds in the woods to the left and right of the road, giving the pup a reason to get off the trail. Help the pup in the beginning oftlineby walking into the woods, encouraging the young dog to quest for birds.

Teasers and groomed rows are useful for training pointing breeds also, with a few modifications in technique. Because you don't want pointing breeds to catch birds, plant flyers or use release traps with live birds instead of planting Velcro-wing birds. Again, place the traps or flyers at the outside edge of desired range. Each helper will alternately tease the pointer to his side, where the dog will find birds. Don't plant birds in the middle of the field, as that will only encourage the dog to run straight ahead instead of quartering.

Once again, helpers are beneficial but certainly not mandatory. By running the dog on a 30-foot check cord, you can steer it left and right by giving two short beeps on the whistle then twitching the cord. Shortly, the dog will start changing direction after the beeps but before the twitch. Logging roads can also be used for this training.

One problem hunters often encounter once a dog has experience is the dog's desire to get downfield in a hurry. This is particularly true for gundogs that spend a lot of time at hunt clubs. The dogs soon come to know the birds are "out there." A dog running straight out in front and not quartering leaves holes in its pattern-holes in which a wise rooster may be hunkered down.

Of course the hunter doesn't always have the luxury of hunting into the wind. But by always being cognizant of wind direction and making sure your dog is trained to run efficient upwind patterns, the odds of success will most certainly shift in your favor.

Why Own A Dog?

Why own a dog? There's a danger you know, you can't own just one, for the craving will grow.
There's no doubt they're addictive, wherein lies the danger.
While living with lots, you'll grow poorer and stranger.

One dog is no trouble, and two are so funny.
The third one is easy, the fourth one's a honey.
The fifth one delightful, the sixth one's a breeze,
You find you can live with a house full with ease.

So how 'bout another? Would you really dare?
They're really quite easy but oh, Lord the hair!
With dogs on the sofa and dogs on the bed,
And crates in the kitchen, it's no bother you've said.

They're really no trouble, their manners are great.
What's just one more dog and just one more crate?
The sofa is hairy, the windows are crusty,
The floor is all footprints, the furniture dusty.

The housekeeping suffers, but what do you care?
Who minds a few nose prints and a little more hair?
So let's keep a puppy, you can always find room,
And a little more time for the dust cloth and broom.

There's hardly a limit to the dogs you can add,
The thought of a cutback sure makes you sad.
Each one is so special, so useful, so funny.
The vet, the food bill grows larger, you owe money.

Your folks never visit, few friends come to stay,
Except other dog folks, who all live the same way.
Your lawn has now died, and your shrubs are dead too,
But your weekends are busy, you're off with your crew.

There's dog food and vitamins, training and shots.
And entries and travel and motels which cost lots.
Is it worth it, you wonder? Are you caught in a trap?
Then that favorite dog comes and climbs in your lap.

His look says you're special and you know that you will
Keep all of the critters in spite of the bill.
Some just for showing and some just to breed.
And some just for loving, they all fill a need.

But winter's a hassle, the dogs hate it too.
But they must have their walks though they're numb and
you're blue.
Late evening is awful, you scream and you shout
At the dogs on the sofa who refuse to go out.

The dogs and the dog shows, the travel, the thrills,
The work and the worry, the pressure, the bills.
The whole thing seems worth it, the dogs are your life.
They're charming and funny and offset the strife.

Your life-style has changed. Things won't be the same.
Yes, those dogs are addictive and so is the dog game!!